Safe, Happy and Sober Boating

BWI...no, that's not Baltimore Washington International Airport. The delays you'll face if you're found BWI are so much longer and more problematic, that you'll wish you were grounded in a snowstorm at the airport.

BWI is Boating While Intoxicated! Also called Boating Under the Influence. That means Alcohol, Narcotics or any Drugs, prescription or otherwise!

Let's face it, having a beer, or a cocktail ,or a few drinks, just seems to go along with a sultry summer day at the boat. The problem is when people have more than constitutes legal intoxication, which is .08 BAC (Blood Alcohol Content) in most states and then get behind the wheel of a boat and operate it. Some people, in fact, don't need to even have the legal limit to become unable to operate a boat safely, and even if they do not have that .08 limit in their system, thay can be considered "impaired" and still arrested if they are operating a vessel unsafely.

Most states now have a ZERO BAC tolerance for those under the legal drinking age. This pertains to BWI as well as the DWI laws. If a person under the legal age to consume alcoholic beverages is found to have alcohol in their bloodstream, they will be immediately arrested. In fact, some states now have a requirement that teens caught under the influence, and driving, will lose their ability to have a drivers license until they are 21! And, that goes whether they are caught in a car or a boat!

The costs of BWI or DWI (Called DUI or Driving Under the Influence) are astronomical. Estimates in California are that it can cost $10,000 for the first offense, considering legal fees, fines, etc. Your vessel could be towed or impounded by the Coast Guard or Marine Police, and, if you're involved in a collision and cause property damage, bodily injury or God forbid, a fatality while operating under the influence, you could be facing felony charges and huge fines as well as lawsuits. Lawsuits not only by persons on a vessel you might hit, but by people on your own vessel who are injured by your negligence.

If you think it can't happen, think again! In my career, I've responded to many incidents where the operator was "three sheets to the wind" and thought the damage caused by his vessel was minor. Inebriation tends to do that...make everything seem minuscule. Even backing over a swimmer seemed unimportant to one "captain" when he reversed his out drive as a swimmer was hanging on. Granted, the swimmer should never have been there; they both were intoxicated, but the operator never looked, and in his state, probably would never have seen the swimmer anyhow.

Please remember that safe boating is sober boating. Life is so precious that it makes no sense to waste it foolishly. Enjoy partying at the dock. If you drink, drink responsibly. Don't wander all over the docks while drunk, either. (We had a man fall overboard some years ago and drown after a night of heavy drinking; he was found the next morning). It might sound very funny, but if you've had a bit too much to drink and feel the absolute need to walk around on the docks, wear that life vest. Being tipsy on the dock with a life vest sure beats being cold and dead in the morgue.

My wish for each and every one of you is a safe and happy holiday season filled with love, happiness and that your new year is bright and prosperous as you look forward to a great boating season ahead.

Safe Boating!

MARINE ELECTRICAL SAFETY

In the harsh marine environment, electrical systems take a beating. Exposure to salt, fuel, ultraviolet radiation, strain, abrasion and overloading are a few of the reasons. You know how some of your 12 volt systems look after a few seasons; your shore power system is in the same environment.

Every year, we read of untold millions of dollars in marine losses, and occasional fatalities, due to faulty, or improperly installed. marine wiring. The facts are that 110 volts can kill; as little as 1/10 of an ampere is all it takes. And, talk about heat, a short circuit can generate well over a thousand degrees of heat, more than enough to ignite wood, fiberglass and most other boat building materials.

Some safety hints:

1. Use only a shore power cord set capable of handling your boats power load, and UL Listed for the marine environment. Marine cord sets are available in two common load ratings, 30 amperes and 50 amperes. If you have a 50 amp system, use a 50 amp cord set. A 30 amp cord set will overheat and will likely fail over time.

2. Use only plugs and connectors designed for marine service. Taped together wiring laying on docks, or on deck, is an invitation to disaster.

3. Don't use regular outdoor extension cords. These are subject to rapid deterioration, and expose you, and your boat, to significant danger of fire and electrical shock.

4. Check your shore power cord regularly. It should be free of knots, have no frayed areas, and the male and female connectors secure and weathertight. If it is damaged or deteriorated, replace it.

5. Keep your shore power cord out of the water. Rapid loss of zincs on your boat from stray electrical current reaching your hull is costly, but the danger to divers, and others who may be in the water, can be deadly.

6. Use Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI's) on all 110 volt electrical outlets on your boat. If your boat didn't come with GFCI's, you can install them for about ten dollars each. They interrupt the flow of electricity when a ground fault (leakage) of electricity is far below the lethal zone.

7. Don't "jerry rig" electrical wiring. If you can't handle the job, have a qualified electrician, competent in marine wiring, do the job. It will be a lot less costly in the long run.

If you have a 110 volt generator on board, the electrical system should be carefully monitored for deterioration. The generator is usually in the engine room, where the marine elements can damage and corrode components without being noticed. If you have any reason to suspect an electrical problem, have your systems checked out as soon as possible.

Routine inspection and maintenance of your shore power electrical system is not difficult. All it takes is a little time and care, to extend the life expectancy of your electrical system, and YOU!

Safe Boating.

Mosquitoes and Other Annoying Buzzing Things

Many of us are annoyed at small things that buzz, and cause us to flinch and shake our heads in disbelief. Yet, all such things cannot be eliminated simply with a flyswatter or a large can of Raid. Yes, I am talking about Personal Water Craft or PWC. Sometimes better known as Jet Skis, water bikes, Sea-Doo's or similar, although I have heard them, and their operators, called things I won't mention here!

PWC's, ridden responsibly, are great fun. They provide a relatively inexpensive means for tens of thousands to enjoy the water, and unfortunately, for a few to be careless, irresponsible and, in some cases, downright negligent. As a result of such carelessness,often on the part of other riders, some have died, and many others have suffered serious injury.

PWC's are not toys. They are high performance, high speed water craft that should be handled as seriously as one handles a high performance boat or car. There is a time and place for speed and fun, and a time to operate slowly and cautiously. Launching areas, marinas, mooring areas and high boat traffic areas are NOT the place to operate at high speeds.

Many of the new models are multi-rider capable and have high-horsepower engines. Although manufacturers agreed to limit speeds of to 65 miles per hour, tuners have brought the speeds way beyond that and, in many cases, far beyond the safe handling capacity of the vessel, or the operator.

PWC operators, like any boat operator, are responsible for the damage done by their wake. Running too fast in a marina area can result in boats at berth being damaged. Running in or close to swimming areas can result in injury or even death to swimmers. And, jumping wakes too close to the stern of large vessels can have catastrophic results. At that point, the PWC operator cannot see approaching vessels, and may easily run into, or be run over, by a vessel moving in the opposite direction.

All craft, whether larger vessels or PWC's, need to observe the rules of the road, and use common sense in operating their craft. Failure to do so will result in injury, death, and the one thing we all dislike most, more regulation. The move has been afoot for years for operator licensing for boats, and some states have enacted laws that require a permit to operate a boat. Due to the proliferation of personal water craft, and the carelessness of some operators, even some boat owners are calling for licensing, or at least mandatory safety education, for PWC operators.

There are a lot of responsible boaters, and PWC owners out there. It's up to each and every one of us to operate our craft in a safe, responsible manner. If we don't, restriction, regulation and laws will hamper everyones enjoyment of our waters.

So, like mosquitoes, PWC are not likely to go away any time soon. We must learn to live with them. But, keep that flyswatter and can of Raid handy, anyway. It won't help with the PWC's, but it might help if you decide to head for the bush to rid yourself of the incessant drone of those PWC's!

Safe Boating!

BREATHLESS

Interesting how we take so many things for granted. Sunshine, warm breezes, summer nights, breathing. Wait a minute, what's this breathing all about? It's a fact that we all breathe. Without life sustaining oxygen, we'd all be at Davy Jones' Ball.

Our air is comprised of about 21% oxygen. That's what it takes to breathe naturally. When the percentage goes down to 16% or so, breathing gets to be a chore. And as the oxygen percentage gets lower, so do we, until we are rendered unconscious, and ultimately lifeless, by a thing called anoxia, which means lack of oxygen.

On a vessel, air is not usually a problem. There's plenty of it, and it all contains about the right amount of life giving oxygen. But, there may be a sinister figure waiting to sneak in and take your breath away. It is called carbon monoxide. Tasteless, colorless and odorless, it silently steals into your living spaces, and infiltrates your body through your lungs and into your blood stream. There it inhibits the blood from carrying oxygen, and if not caught in time, sends you to shake hands with Davy Jones and other long lost sailors.

At mooring or anchor, and on deck, is no guarantee that carbon monoxide poisoning won't pay a visit. Adjacent boats, running their engines, can send your carbon monoxide levels sky high. Generators running, with the exhaust reentering the vessel through hatches, ports, or other openings has resulted in death. A group of boaters, happily rafting up off Catalina, were enjoying a day of fun and sun. Maybe too much fun in the sun, as a number of participants complained of headache, nausea, dizziness, mental confusion or fatigue. One of the boaters recognized that something was very wrong, much more than too much beer and sun. Suddenly, the droning of the generators on the rafted up boats made her realize this was carbon monoxide poisoning! Had there not been a combination of her sharp observations, a fast run to Los Angeles, ready paramedics and the availability of a hyperbaric chamber, this trip would have had a tragic ending. Luckily, all survived.

Carbon monoxide is a silent killer. It has no warning properties. High concentrations may cause only transient weakness and dizziness before death. Longer term exposure results in one or more of the symptoms described above. Carbon monoxide poisoning is cumulative, meaning lower concentrations over hours or days can result in poisoning.

Prevention is much better than cure. The first line of defense is a good carbon monoxide detector. There are a number available, but those built to withstand the marine environment are best. Good cabin and bilge ventilation with fresh air, and an exhaust system, free of leaks, that disperses the exhaust well behind, or off to the sides of the vessel, are other safeguards.
Stop the silent killer on your vessel before he stops you. Be aware and be prepared.

Safe Boating.

DISTRESS SIGNALS

I know how some people think of distress signals. This is what your stomach tells you after a big night at the club, or after a holiday weekend. OK, I'll buy that, but what about the ones you have on board. You know, the ones back there in the cockpit or lazarette, or somewhere? Right, the ones you'll need a lot more than Alka-Seltzer, when you're in distress someday.

During my Coast Guard years, I saw a lot of people in distress, some of whom would likely have never made it, had it not been for the sharp eyes of a crewman on lookout. I never cease to be amazed at the lack of good quality distress signals on vessels. Folks, no matter how you look at it, these things are as important as your PFD in an emergency. No matter how long you stay afloat, if no one comes to get you, the final result is the same, just slower. Yes, that's a chilling thought, but no more chilling than 24 hours in the cold offshore waters.

Why are there dating requirements on aerial flares and other pyrotechnic devices? Old flares appear to be good, and there is a good chance they will work even if outdated. But dating requirements were established to help assure the distress signals will work every time they are needed. The "shelf life" of these signals is predicated on the average user, and the handling that user will likely give the signals. If everyone kept their signals in air and water tight containers, they would probably last much longer than the three years between manufacture and expiration. If you leave them sloshing around in bilge water, I can guarantee a shortened life span. Keep your distress signals in a dry area, free of unusual heat, and you'll be able to keep your outdated signals for spares.

Smoke canisters and hand held smoke devices must also meet dating requirements. Same with fusees, or hand held flares. They need to be within date and maintained in good condition. Ordinary road flares are not acceptable, since they are not dated and do not bear a USCG label. And, most road flares are subject to deterioration due to their construction, which is not meant to stand up to the rigors of marine storage.

It is wise to carry more distress signals than required; remember USCG requirements are just minimums. And, for voyages far offshore, SOLAS listed distress signals may be a prudent buy, since they are designed not only to meet, but to exceed all USCG standards. Whistles, PFD lights or strobes, signaling mirrors and a hand held VHF radio are important safety items as well.

Since 1982, over 22,000 people have been rescued using the COSPAS-SARSAT system which uses satellite tracking of distress signals. For those of you who purchased the older 121.5 MHz EPIRB's, as of February 1, 2009 ,the signal will no longer be picked up by satellite. You will need to purchase a new 406 MHz Category I or II EPIRB to assure you will be able to be found in an emergency! For offshore voyages, a reasonably inexpensive, (considering what a life is worth?) a 406 Mhz EPIRB, with its multiple frequency signals, and "signature" transmissions to SARSAT satellites, is a wise choice.

Incidentally, the old EPIRB's may still have their signal picked up by commercial aircraft, but that does no good unless there is one in the area. Plus they don't look for your signal specifically...it's just the luck of the draw!

Request a copy of the US Coast Guard and your specific State requirements, and be sure your equipment meets the minimum standards. A no-cost Coast Guard Auxiliary inspection each year is one way to be sure you exceed the minimums for safety.

If, in over forty years of boating, I have learned one lesson well, it is that the key to survival is you. You and your crew, and the preparations you have made, are the only things you can count on in an emergency. The best safety and distress signals will not work unless you take the time to learn their correct storage and deployment techniques, and when to use them to their best advantage. The time for that is now, not when the distress call identifies your vessel.

Safe Boating.

CHANCES ARE

All of us take chances. Some are small and others require that you literally "bet your life". It's those major chances that are likely to result in serious injury, or even death.

We all cheat a bit when we use hazardous products. Remember when you sprayed touch up paint on your engine, down in the bilge? Wow, pretty good high, huh? Unfortunately, your lungs, kidneys and especially your liver, didn't enjoy it at all. And how about that little fiberglass repair you did. The fumes were really heavy. Again, your internal organs suffered. What about washing up with solvents? Lacquer thinner, acetone or MEK work great in dissolving that sticky resin. Too bad it's doing the same to your liver. Remember how your hands turned white when you cleaned them off with lacquer thinner? It defatted your skin; think about the damage it was doing internally!

Let's talk about solvent safety for a minute. You've all heard that alcohol use frequently results in liver disease. That's because alcohol, which is a solvent, attacks the liver and destroys it. So we all hoist a few now and then, and our livers are doing fine, right. Yep, most likely so. But remember, the degree of damage is dependent on three distinct factors, time, total and toxicity.

For example, having a few drinks every weekend spaces out the time, the total amount is low, and the toxicity of drinkable alcohol is relatively low on the solvent scale. Now if you wash your hands with a few ounces of industrial solvent, like methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone or methylene chloride twice daily, you're in big trouble. The time factor is much more frequent. the total amount is far greater, and the toxicity is extremely high. In fact, you can lose over 50% of your liver function and may never know it, unless you contract hepatitis or otherwise have a liver function test.

When you work with any material containing solvents, or the solvents themselves, give your liver a break. Work in well ventilated places. Induce ventilation if needed, but not with ordinary fans that may spark and ignite the fumes. In some cases a respirator may be needed. Use suitable gloves and/or a barrier cream for your skin.

Occasional contact with most solvents is not overly harmful, unless you come into contact with a solvent such as phenol. Washing your hands in that will almost surely result in death. So take precautions whenever you use solvents. The life you save may be your own.

Plus. solvents are harmful to the environment, so use and dispose of them in an environmentally friendly way. Never flush them into the water or allow them to collect in your bilges. Most solvents are flammable, increasing the risk of fire, as well as damage to materials they contact that you didn't plan on.

Safe Boating!

FIRST AID

When you are far from shore, and an emergency medical situation arises, how will you handle it? Will you panic, not knowing what to do, or will you be able to provide life saving care until professional help is available? The difference between the two may be a simple first aid course, and a well equipped first aid kit. This applies whether you are a coastal cruiser or plan to circumnavigate the world.

Many injuries are minor. Scrapes, scratches, small lacerations, minor burns and bruises are easily treated. But fractures, deep wounds, severe burns, heart attack, stroke and other serious injuries and illnesses, require immediate medical attention. A trained first aider can stabilize an injury or illness, and provide a window of time for paramedics or other professionals to respond. Often, a victim would die without prompt, proper first aid.

While there are some excellent commercially packaged first aid kits, your boat first aid kit should not be an impulsive purchase off the shelf. You need to put much thought into what you and your crew will need in an emergency.

Medications,for example, need to be fresh and in moisture tight over wrap, like small freezer bags. Be sure there is enough to last for the expected length of your trip, plus additional if your return is delayed. For longer voyages, get an extra copy of your prescription from your doctor, so you can have it filled when visiting a port with a pharmacy. Be aware that you may not be able to have all prescriptions filled at every pharmacy, particularly in sparsely inhabited areas or foreign ports, so carry enough for the trip. Also, don't carry drugs in unlabeled containers. It will be difficult enough to explain to authorities why you have controlled substances on board without a prescription or pharmacy labeled container, but it can be deadly to take the wrong drug.

First aid supplies should be carefully assembled to meet your needs and that of your crew. Consider medical histories, current health problems, allergies and sensitivities. Is anyone allergic to bee or wasp stings? Kits are available to prevent anaphylactic shock for those severely allergic to such stings, but you need to make preparations before you leave port. Splints, rescue breathers, bandages, eye wash solutions and other supplies are readily available. Depending on your voyage, you may also need a suture kit, and other supplies, to perform minor surgical procedures underway. Pain medications may also be needed for emergency use, and can be prescribed by your physician. You should discuss, with your physician, his or her recommendations for specific drugs, preparations and supplies when assembling your medical kit.

A first aid course should be mandatory for all cruisers, and is highly recommended even for the day sailor. Knowing what to do when an emergency strikes is critical to survival. The American Red Cross offers basic and advanced first aid courses. Other organizations offer courses on emergency medical procedures at sea, extremely worthwhile for the long distance cruiser. Several books are available on first aid afloat; obtaining a copy and reading it thoroughly, before you have an emergency, is smart.

I hope you never need to use your first aid kit in an emergency. But, being prepared for any emergency will make your trip more relaxed. Remember, the life you save could be your own.

Safe Boating.

The United States Coast Guard

Few really know much about the Coast Guard. That is until you need them. Most people think of them as the people who run around saving lives when boats run aground, or ships sink or people go missing at sea, or hurricanes strike. That's true, but to use a cliche' that's only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the many duties and assignments of the Coast Guard.

From the Official US Coast Guard Historians Site:

"The United States Coast Guard, one of the country's five armed services, is a unique agency of the federal government. We trace our history back to 4 August 1790, when the first Congress authorized the construction of ten vessels to enforce tariff and trade laws and to prevent smuggling. Known variously through the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries as the Revenue Marine and the Revenue Cutter Service, we expanded in size and responsibilities as the nation grew.

The service received its present name in 1915 under an act of Congress when the Revenue Cutter Service merged with the Life-Saving Service. The nation then had a single maritime service dedicated to saving life at sea and enforcing the nation's maritime laws. The Coast Guard began to maintain the country's aids to maritime navigation, including operating the nation's lighthouses, when President Franklin Roosevelt ordered the transfer of the Lighthouse Service to the Coast Guard in 1939. In 1946 Congress permanently transferred the Bureau of Marine Inspection and Navigation to the Coast Guard, thereby placing merchant marine licensing and merchant vessel safety under our purview.

The Coast Guard is one of the oldest organizations of the federal government and, until the Navy Department was established in 1798, we served as the nation's only armed force afloat. We continued to protect the nation throughout our long history and have served proudly in every one of the nation's conflicts. Our national defense responsibilities remain one of our most important functions even today. In times of peace we operate as part of the Department of Homeland Security, serving as the nation's front-line agency for enforcing our laws at sea, protecting the marine environment and our vast coastline and ports, and saving life. In times of war, or at the direction of the President, we serve under the Navy Department."

When Hurricane Katrina hit in 2005, 60,000 people were stranded in flooded homes and on rooftops, requiring rescue. Of the total evacuations, the Coast Guard saved more than 33,500 people, including over 9,400 medical evacuations!

During every war and conflict, the Coast Guard has been there. You don't hear much about them because they are not a huge service, just a small group with a big mission that they do very well. When arms and munitions smuggling along the coast and waterways of Vietnam needed to be stopped, the Coast Guard was called in performed marvelously, with the last combat unit remaining until August 1970. During every conflict, from its inception in 1790 and the War of 1812, through World War I, World War II, Korea and now Iraq and Afghanistan, the Coast Guard has always been there and lives up to its' motto, Semper Paratus...Always Prepared.

There has long been a custom that was told throughout our history in the Coast Guard, maybe it's written somewhere, and maybe not, but in the hearts of each and every "Coastie" as he or she takes the oath of service, and remembered each time the call goes out for help:

"The book says you have to go out...it doesn't say you have to come back..."

In memory of seven shipmates that didn't come back from Vietnam...may fair winds always be at your backs and calm seas beneath your feet, the sun shine warm upon your face. In the tradition of the keeper of the light, keep the beacon shining bright for all of us who will follow you home.

WHO YA GONNA CALL?

You're aground in the bay, your mast has broken and you're out of fuel. Or, your boat is sinking, at the dock. No problem, the Coast Guard will come to your rescue. Wrong. Okay, you can call the Harbor Police. Wrong, again. Well, how about a commercial towing service. Right.

Wait a minute, you say. We pay taxes for these services. Well, you're partially right there, but budget cuts and funding reductions have required many governmental agencies to reduce their services to the public. The Coast Guard had many additional duties added over the years, without adequate funding to support all their activities. Cuts needed to be made, and unfortunately, recreational boating had to bear, what would seem, a disproportionate share of the service cuts. And, commercial vessels fared no better. The primary mission of the Coast Guard always has been, and remains, safety to life on the high seas. If a situation at sea presents a direct and imminent threat to life, you can count on the Coast Guard to respond. But, they are not a commercial tow or salvage company. Commercial towing companies have done battle over the years with governmental agencies, accusing them of taking away their livelihood by offering free services. Deep budget cuts and liability issues settled the matter. The Coast Guard and other governmental agencies wouldn't be providing services offered by the private sector.

This also holds true of the Harbor Police. Their primary mission is law enforcement in San Diego Bay. They will also respond when there is an imminent danger to life, but, like the Coast Guard, they are not a commercial tow or salvage company. It isn't that they don't want to help, simply that economics and legal issues preclude any help that the private sector can provide. The Harbor Police, and the Coast Guard, will stand by if needed, until commercial help arrives, and assist to reduce danger to life, but will not perform commercial services.

So, now where does this leave you, the recreational boater? Actually not that bad off, so long as you recognize the differences in services offered. and avail yourself of those services judiciously. Most commercial tow services provide towing, ungrounding, dewatering, salvage and other related services, but be prepared to pay. These services can be very costly. Vessel Assist, SeaTow, and perhaps others, offer towing and other services on an annual fee basis, similar to the auto club on shore. Be sure the one you choose provides you with the benefits you want, such as towing to your port of choice, and the coverage area fits your needs. Boat/US offers members a basic tow allowance as part of membership, with higher limits available at an additional cost. Some marine insurance policies can have towing added at an additional cost.

The main point is knowing who to call, and when. If there is a matter of safety to life, including sinking, fire or medical emergency, call the Coast Guard immediately. If you need a tow, run out of gas or are grounded, you'll need a commercial service like those listed above. You can still call the Coast Guard, but you'll be referred to a commercial service. And. a word of advice: If you're in doubt as to the seriousness of the matter, or if you think the problem will likely escalate into a life threatening emergency, call the Coast Guard first. They will get the details and advise you of the proper party to handle your situation. They'll even contact a commercial service for you, if needed.

Look at this philosophically; you wouldn't expect the Highway Patrol to tow your car home, nor the National Park Service to tow your RV home. So why expect the Coast Guard to tow your boat back to port. The days of free services are gone forever, but you do have choices available to help you enjoy a worry free boating season.

Safe Boating.

HOW HIGH"S THE WATER, MAMA?

If Johnny Cash was asking that question, he'd reply "Six feet high and risin'". Your concern, most likely, is that the water depth is several feet deeper than the lowest portion of your vessel that extends below the surface of the water.

Like Murphy, there are a number of SafetyDoc's personal laws of physics that pertain to underwater objects:

1. Boat parts, such as keels and propellers, tend to gravitate toward underwater objects that hold great destructive power.

2. The damage caused by an underwater object is inversely proportional to the value of the part struck, times the difficulty of replacement. I can guarantee that if you had a five dollar plastic propeller, removable in thirty seconds or less, it would survive every grounding and last forever. However, your four hundred dollar propeller and eight hundred dollar stainless shaft, removable at great expense, won't survive the smallest sandbar unscathed.

3. Objects in the water have a destruction ratio equal to a sum of their mass times hull speed. Meaning, that the harder you strike the object, the greater the damage, unless you actually intended to sink your boat, in which case there will not even be a scratch on the running gear or the hull.

4. Sand bars only shift when you approach. They lie dormant until the moment your vessel approaches, and insidiously change position to snag your keel or running gear as you pass over.

5. Buoys marking shoals don't. The shoal is always located somewhere off the buoy, and their location authenticated by the crunching sound of fiberglass, or the metallic grinding of what was your propulsion gear.

Speaking of depths, some folks don't realize their depth finder transducer is located at the transom, stern, or at best, midships in the hull. Since the "sonar" signal basically radiates straight down in a cone shape, you're already over the obstacle when the depth finder reads too shallow for operation. I've heard that familiar depth alarm many times. Strangely, it sounds like Oh, S---!

Seriously, many groundings are simply embarrassing, while others can have tragic consequences. You've all heard the warnings not to dive into unknown waters. Same for boats, look before you go.

Safe Boating.

WHERE AM I?

It's getting late, and the marine layer is fast closing in. You are not concerned, since you have your new GPS in hand, ready to give you precise directions to the marina. So you turn it on, look at the display, and see your present position. Where's the position for the marina? Not there, nor are any other positions; you never entered them!

Not an unusual scenario. Many people see GPS or LORAN (often called "navionics") as "black boxes" and marvels of technology, and fail to read the instructions before leaving the dock. For example, one boater entered his position at a marina on San Diego Bay as his "home" location. The next, and only position he entered was his favorite fishing spot, about 12 miles west of Mission Bay. Not a problem on a clear day, but if he were trying to retrace his route blindly in a fog, these readings would lead him smack into the rocks or the beach. Remember, GPS cannot in itself develop courses around obstacles, and Point Loma is a very big obstacle to cross in a boat.

GPS and LORAN can be compared to an electronic road map. You cannot simply draw a straight line between two points across the country, and expect to get to your destination by driving that line. (Hummvee owners excluded). Same with GPS and LORAN. You need to route out your trip with charts and using lat/lon bearings or TDs, set a course. Each change in direction, whether to bypass an obstacle, or a change in heading or direction, requires a new "waypoint".

Waypoints entered off charts are best corrected with YOUR actual location when your vessel reaches the waypoint. In this manner, your stored information will be accurate as of the day you enter it, not as old as months, or even longer, before your chart went to press.

Navigating with today's electronics does not eliminate charts. Even the electronic maps do not replace a well prepared chart, where you can plan your route visually, seek depths that are safe for your vessel, and make notes of changing conditions. The art of dead reckoning should not be lost, since when you are out of battery power for your navionics, you'll still need to pull out the old charts and work your way to port.

Finally, even if you do not enter anything into your GPS or LORAN, they're still very useful instruments. If the day comes you are in distress, you can precisely tell the Coast Guard your position. That is, if you remembered to bring extra batteries if you're using one of the hand held marvels!

Safe Boating.

SURFIN' THE (AIR) WAVES

Everyone knows how to use their VHF marine radio. Right? Okay, how do you reach a bridge tender by radio to request passage? No, calling him on Channel 16 won't help. Neither will calling him any of a number of bad names. The only way to reach a bridge tender, other than horn signals, is on Channel 13.

Now, what is the correct way to request assistance? Call Mayday? or Mae West? No, the call depends on the urgency and nature of assistance needed.True emergencies call for the use of MAYDAY. Urgent matters not directly hazardous to life or property need PAN PAN. And even lesser advisories use SECURITY. You need to acquaint yourselves of the proper procedures now; when an emergency happens, it's too late.

Suppose you're disabled. Who is going to make that emergency call for you? Better take the time now to instruct the entire crew on proper radio procedure.

How about that FCC license, the one you were always going to send for? Better get your application in, and keep the temporary license on board. If you are caught transmitting on your VHF radio without a license, the fines are HUGE! The license fees have increased, but a license is now valid for 10 years from the date of issue. But, remember, the license is valid ONLY for the boat to which it is issued, and if you sell the boat, you need a new license.

Which brings up another point. When making application for an FCC license, you need to request licensing for all electronic transmitting equipment you now have on board, or reasonably expect to have during the licensing period. This includes your main VHF, handhelds, radar, single sideband marine radio, satellite communications, EPIRB, etc. The standard license covers one VHF radio and a 121.5/243.0 mhz EPIRB, but not the 406 mhz units, so be sure to add whatever you need.

And now you can make application on line at http://www.fcc.gov/ You'll need to register and then you can use the Universal Licensing Syatem. You can even pay for your license and do your renewals on line!

Safe Boating!

Loop Head Lighthouse, Ireland

Sometimes you need to stand back to see the whole picture. That was the case as I took this picture, from about a half-mile away with a telephoto lens. I have many more close-ups, but the perspective is standing back and looking at the light, and not the buildings providing auxiliary support. The lighthouse is what provides the safety and security to mariners, and although it receives support from the barracks housing and the fog horn, it is the light that provides the beacon of hope to the lost and stranded mariner in the toughest of times.

That's something we should do every day; stand back and look at what really matters. Not just what's on the periphery, perhaps, but what's really important in life. The beacon that guides us daily and provides us hope, love and the power to continue on in a world of uncertainty and chaos. The pillar of strength in troubled times. The light that shines through the darkest storm and always guides us home.

Everyone has someone in their life that is that beacon. If you don't recognize them, you aren't looking hard enough. They are there day and night and always ready to reach out, and hold your hand through the best and worst of times. But they can't be there if you don't let them. Too many try to sequester themselves in their own world, and won't reach out to touch that which is waiting at every turn for love and support.

Like the mariners of old, peering through the driving wind and rain of the storm, the light is out there if you look. But you cannot see with your eyes closed and your head turned away.

Safe sailing, and may the seas be calm, the wind always be at your back and the sun be warm upon your face.

ANCHORS AWAY!

Many of you will want to take me to task for the headline to this article. You think that's incorrect terminology, and that it should be "Anchors Aweigh". Not, so. This article is about how people fail to anchor properly, and their anchor goes "away", usually for good.

All of you should know the importance of good ground tackle. The sound of the surf on the rocks at night is soothing, but not when you wake up, and although you anchored a mile offshore, realize your vessel is now in the surf. That's a bad way to learn surfing, and an even worse way to learn about proper anchoring equipment and techniques!

There are a number of reasons anchored boats fail to remain in a stationary position. Not in any particular order, they are:

• Anchor not heavy enough for the vessel size, or conditions encountered.
• Anchor wrong type for the bottom.
• Anchor of poor quality, bends, breaks or will not hold.
• Setting only one anchor when conditions warrant two.
• Insufficient scope of line for depth and weather conditions.
• Insufficient length, or no chain between anchor and anchor rode.
• Chain of poor quality, insufficient strength.
• Line of insufficient size or strength for load.
• Failure to secure bitter end of anchor line to a secure mooring point on vessel.
• Use of windlass brake to hold vessel, rather than mooring point.
• Poor quality line, deteriorated line or poor splices.

Fittings wrong type, strength or deteriorated.

Anchors and other ground tackle should be chosen for their holding power in the worst type of conditions you expect to encounter. Then, consider going one size up. So, if Murphy's Law is right, and conditions are worse than you ever imagined, at least you will have the best chance of weathering the storm unscathed.

I can't discuss the pros and cons of all available lines, and the proper line to use in every situation. That would take volumes, and an expert on cordage, which I am certainly not. But, line, including dock and anchor lines, should be of the best quality available. It seems ridiculous to moor a quarter million dollar boat with five dollar dock lines. Same for most polypropylene line. You know, that brightly colored line you bought in a discount store, that seems to always be splitting, with strands sticking out all over. That may be okay for occasional use on a play raft or dinghy, but I wouldn't bet my boat, or my life on it.

I have purchased what was alleged to be high quality nylon line, only to have it fray, abrade and deteriorate rapidly. Don't make that mistake. Buy the highest quality line available. You can still shop for price, but don't let low price entice you into low quality.

Line on a boat is like a parachute. When you need it the most is not the time to be wishing you had bought better quality. Then, it's far too late.

Safe Boating.

EXPLOSIVE NEWS

It's two-thirty on a warm August afternoon. The operator of a new 27 foot express cruiser, with three passengers aboard, has just finished fueling, loading 80 gallons of gasoline into his tanks. He closes the tank fill, and runs his bilge blowers for four minutes. The gasoline smell lingers, but he's sure it must be from the tank vents and the fuel dock. He starts to turn the key, hesitates a second, and fires up the engine.

Later, from the burn ward at the trauma center, he says he never heard or saw the explosion that threw him into the water, killed one of his passengers, and severely injured the other two. Nor did he see the ensuing fire that destroyed his boat and damaged the fuel dock and two adjacent vessels. "What went wrong?", he asks. "I ran the blowers like I should and still the boat exploded."

This captain broke the cardinal rule of safety on gasoline fueled boats. He didn't lift the hatches, look and sniff, to be sure that fuel hadn't leaked into the bilge. In his case, a loose clamp on the single clamped fuel fill, had allowed several gallons of gas to run into the bilge, where it vaporized and ignited when the engine was started.

Gasoline is strange stuff. A mixture of aliphatic hydrocarbons, it has a flash point of minus 50 degrees Fahrenheit (-50F). So, even in the coldest temperatures, it'll still burn. It's vapor density is three to four times that of air, which is why fumes find the lowest point of your boat, the bilge. It has a lower explosive level of 1.3% and an upper explosive level of 6%, meaning that when mixed with plain old air (vaporized), anywhere between those percentages, and given an ignition source, it's gonna blow. Autoignition temperature is 536 F to 853 F, so if you heat it up on a hot manifold, poof!

So, what can you do to reduce the potential for an explosion and fire? There are a few ways. First, before you start those engines, or generator, raise the hatches, get down below and take a good sniff. There should be no odor of gasoline in a properly maintained vessel. Second, regularly check all fuel system hoses and clamps. All fill line fittings should be double clamped at the tank and deck fitting. Vent hoses should be double clamped at both ends. Damaged hoses should be replaced immediately. Third, be sure your blowers are adequate, properly connected, and draw air from the lowest points of the bilge to exhaust any possible vapors. Finally, consider investing in a vapor detector or "sniffer" for your bilge. They're invaluable sentries when you're underway, and can't sniff the bilge for yourself.

My personal story had a much happier ending than the one above. Returning to the dock after an afternoon cruise on my sportfisherman, I climbed down from the flybridge to the main deck, where I smelled the strong odor of gasoline. I thought one of my neighboring boaters was filling an outboard tank, but this was even stronger. The odors seemed to be coming from my bilge. I opened the hatch to find the port tank had ruptured, and the bilge awash in gasoline. I won't bore you with the cleanup details, nor the precautions we took to preclude ignition, but there were many. The important thing is that there was no explosion or fire. I always run with the ventilation blowers on. I feel it provides an extra margin of safety, and in this case, the blowers likely kept the vapors minimized until the engine was shut down, and all electrical circuits de-energized. Cheap insurance, replacing a blower every two or three years.

Explosion and fire is a terrifying ordeal on shore, more so aboard. Protect your vessel, and your life, by practicing safe fueling, ventilation, and fuel system maintenance.

Safe Boating.

Hook Head Lighthouse, County Wexford, Ireland

The Lighthouse: Hook Head lies at the foot of a narrow spit of land near Churchtown in County Wexford, and has been the site of a lighthouse for over 7 centuries. A light was built on this site by the monks in 1172 and it is rumored that even before that a beacon fire was maintained at a local monastery nearby to guide mariners on their approach to Waterford harbor. The light was maintained by the monks until 1641 at which time they left the area and it was off for 25 years. After a series of shipwrecks, it was ordered to be lit by Charles II and has remained consistently lit ever since. A site well worth visiting if you're ever in Ireland and a beautiful drive from Waterford on Ireland's south coast.

The Camera: Taken with an Olympus E-100 RS Digital Camera, 1.5 Megapixels JPG image, unedited. The beauty of the E-100Rs is the 15 frames per second shooting speed, the wonderful all glass aspherical lens and the ruggedness to travel anywhere. The utility of an SLR without changing lenses with an amazing 1o26 mm zoom (380 optical combined with a 2.7X digital) and an image stabilizer that works superbly even out that far!) Alas, these cameras are no longer made and those owning one hold them tighter than a bullfrog's butt. If you can grab one, for a few hundred dollars, you'll likely be a very happy owner.

WHAT"S COOKIN', GOOD LOOKIN'?

Well, many of you will want to know what makes me an expert on cooking safety. I don't cook much, still have all my fingers, some of my hair, and haven't burned up my boat, so I'm at least one up on a few boaters in Southern California. But, seriously, cooking accidents are especially dangerous aboard a boat, and a few precautions can reduce the risk to you and your boat.

Alcohol Stoves:
NEVER fill a hot stove. On a pressurized stove, let the stove cool before bleeding off pressure and filling. On a cartridge or canister type stove, let the canister cool before filling, and ALWAYS remove the canister from the stove before filling. Remove extra alcohol from the area where you are cooking. Keep spare fuel tightly capped, and stowed where the container will not rust through. Wipe up spilled fuel immediately. And, keep a small spray bottle filled with water near the stove. A fine mist will tame alcohol flare ups, and repeated mist sprays will usually extinguish a small cooking fire. DO NOT use a straight stream; this will only spread the burning alcohol, or grease, to other areas.

LPG & CNG:
If you use liquid propane gas (LPG) or compressed natural gas (CNG), check the appliances and all supply lines regularly for leakage. Be sure regulators and solenoids, if equipped, are working properly. If you use LPG, the preferred tank location is above decks, away from openings where escaping vapors could enter the enclosed spaces of your vessel. If your tank is in an enclosure, designed for LPG storage, be sure the vents are free of blockage and there are no openings that will allow gas to seep into the bilge. Check the tanks frequently. If a tank is damaged, or severely rusted or corroded, replace it. With CNG, refuse to accept exchange tanks that are damaged or deteriorated. And, shut off the supply at the tank when the system is not in use.Consider installing a gas vapor detector in the engine and bilge spaces of the boat if you use LPG. Vapors are heavier than air, and a leak can go undetected, while filling your bilge and engine spaces with explosive vapors.

Barbecues:
If you have a gas barbecue on board, the type that uses the small disposable cylinders, store the cylinders above decks, and take the same precautions you would with larger tanks. These cylinders, containing sixteen to twenty ounces of LPG, can put enough gas vapor in your boat to destroy it at the slightest spark. At least one of the manufacturers has a storage bag that attaches to a railing above deck, and keeps the cylinders out in the air.If you use charcoal for cooking, be sure it's COMPLETELY cool before disposing of the coals. While the briquettes can be only warm on the outside, the centers can still be glowing hot, sometimes for up to eighteen hours after cooking. I have personally witnessed fires started like this. And, don't use flammable liquids, such as gasoline, for igniting the briquettes. Use starter fluid, starter cubes or similar to ignite your fire.

Be sure to have a fire extinguisher in the galley area, so it is ready for use if needed. Don't mount it over the stove, where you won't be able to reach it if there is a fire.

A fire on board can be a terrifying ordeal for all. Cook safely, and you won't have all those extra guests, from the fire department, on your boat at chow time. They really won't mind not being invited.

Safe Boating!

Point Pinos Lighthouse near Monterey, CA

Lighthouses have been a source of comfort to mariners for centuries. A beacon of hope, of direction when weather has been foul, and storms have been bad. Most have been replaced with more modern lighting, including strobes on different towers, and some are mere shadows of their once-elegant beacon towers, being just a cut-down platform for a modern flashing light.

Here and there in my blog, I'll feature a lighthouse from the US and abroad showing the beauty and majesty of these wonderful structures that have brought mariners home to their ports through the storm and darkness for centuries. I guarantee there are some that will amaze you in their location and I won't reveal how the photos were taken...unless you ask!

THAT SINKING FEELING

Boats float by displacing a given amount of water. Hydraulic pressure is constantly attempting to push that water back in the space occupied by the boat, and when it does, the vessel usually sinks. So, in practice as well as theory, the only thing that actually sinks a boat is water.

There are three primary causes for boats sinking at the dock; sea water, rain water and potable water. Contributing factors include poor hull and equipment maintenance, inadequate or inoperative bilge pumps, and electrical sources, such as batteries, that simply give out.

Sea water will enter your hull through any possible route. Thru-hulls should be inspected regularly, and tested at each haul out. Look for seepage around fittings, deterioration and corrosion. Open and close seacocks regularly to assure free operation. Be sure all below waterline fittings are double clamped with genuine stainless steel clamps. (Some clamps are not all stainless; check all parts of the clamp with a magnet.) Check the clamps regularly, and replace any that are rusted. Good idea to check your exhaust hoses and outlets too. A loose connection can allow a lot of water in the bilge, not to mention the carbon monoxide danger when your engine is running. Shaft and rudder packing glands or stuffing boxes should receive regular attention. Unless you have dripless seals installed, shaft seals should drip some when underway, but not excessively. Adjust to vessel manufacturers specifications.

Rain water will collect in your boat unless it has a free path overboard. Keep deck drains and scuppers free of debris. Leaves, rags left on deck, fishing debris and other materials can clog drains. Check the drain hoses and tighten clamps as needed. Rain water that would normally drain off can enter the bilge, and cause the vessel to sink. This usually happens after repeated rains, even in places where you have relatively moderate to dry climates, and then a rash of storms, as we have seen during recent years. If you have a cover on a small boat or dinghy, be sure it has a bow or other raised portion to deflect water off, or the cover will "belly" and collect until it fills and possibly sink the vessel.

Above the waterline overboard discharge fittings, including those for bilge pumps and shower drains, can also cause sinking. This occurs when a vessel takes on sufficient water, or otherwise is burdened, to allow these fittings to settle below the waterline, and sea water enters the lines. Since these lines do not have check valves, water pours in through the bilge pump, or shower drain, and the vessel sinks. Many boat owners install inverted "U" loops in the lines leading to these fittings to reduce the potential for this type loss. Be sure these fittings are securely clamped too; sinkings have occurred due to hoses pulling off fittings at, or just above, the waterline.

Potable water, straight from the tap, is another cause of vessel sinkings. The owner leaves the city water connected to the vessel and pressurized while away. If a hose breaks or a fitting fails, the vessel is then allowed to fill up from an almost unlimited water supply. This is particularly a problem for people who use their boats infrequently. There are two simple solutions; the first, and the best, is to shut off the water supply whenever you will not be on board. Second is to purchase a small metering device that connects to your water supply hose, (about $10.00) and set the gallonage to your expected consumption for the day, weekend or whatever time you expect to be on board. The meter will shut off when you've used that much, and hopefully, before your boat can sustain much damage if a leak occurs and you're not there.

Most sinkings are preventable. Seeing your prized boat at the bottom, with only the mast or antenna to mark its position, is only the beginning. Raising, salvage, and pollution abatement costs can be many times the value of the vessel. Renovation and refurbishing is often out of the reach of the owner. Don't rely solely on bilge pumps; they are subject to failure, as is the electrical current from your batteries. Take some precautions now to protect your investment, and your enjoyment.

Safe Boating.

BOATING SAFETY

When is the last time you checked your smoke detector? The one on your boat, I mean. There's a very good likelihood you don't have one. Yet, this little marvel of the electronics age, priced at under ten dollars, could mean the difference between surviving a boat fire, or not. Placed on a side bulkhead of the cabin, at least 12 inches below the overhead, smoke detectors will provide a margin of safety in providing early warning of a smoldering fire.

And, when are you going to reconnect that pesky carbon dioxide monitor? Yeah, the small box on the cabin bulkhead that keeps going off when you're running your engines at the dock, or your generator at anchor. Since carbon monoxide is colorless, odorless and tasteless, there's not much chance you will know you're being poisoned. And the symptoms are similar to overexposure to the sun; headache, dizziness, flush skin, nausea, and disorientation. That's not much help either. But, when these symptoms persist, there's a distinct likelihood you will never know you're on the way to Davy Jones' Ball.

Okay, and there's that darn fire extinguisher bottle in the bilge. I guess it's okay, since it's still there. Whoa. Is that your automatic halon system we're talking about? Weighing at least twice annually is the only way to be sure it's charged and ready to go. And, how about those hand portable fire extinguishers? Are the tags up to date and are they ready for service? As a tip: Turn your dry chemical extinguishers upside down occasionally, and if they are in sound condition, tap gently with a rubber mallet around the cylinder. This loosens up the powder, which will tend to compress and cake in some cases.

Finally, when is the last time you checked your dock lines? No, I mean really looked at them closely? Dock lines have the tendency to become abraded, sun dried and frayed, making their integrity questionable. Replace your dock lines with good quality line at regular intervals. Follow the line manufacturers recommendations for working load and breaking strength. Buy the best quality lines you can afford. It seems foolish to spend tens of thousands of dollars on a boat, and try to secure it against natures ravages with a ten dollar line.

As a final comment, concerning quality, and getting what you pay for, I often say "After you jump, it's too late to wish you bought the better parachute." The same holds true for anchors, anchor lines, dock lines and safety equipment. After all, you never heard anyone complain that their parachute worked too well, did you?

Safe Boating!

PFD'S

I am sure all of you know what a PFD is. The acronym doesn't mean Pretty Far Down, which is where many of us would end up if not for that good old Personal Flotation Device.

PFD's are available in a number of types and sizes. Let's take a look at the list:

Type I PFD's, often called offshore life jackets, are designed for open water use, where rescue will likely be delayed. If you cruise, or travel more than a few miles offshore, a Type I is the PFD of choice. They provide the most buoyancy,(a minimum of 22 lbs.), are best for rough waters, are highly visible, and will turn most unconscious persons face up in the water. Drawbacks are that they are bulky to store, can be uncomfortable for long time wear, and may restrict your movements.

Type II PFD's, often referred to as near-shore buoyant vests, are suitable for near coastal waters, where rescue will likely be rapid. They provide less flotation than a Type I vest, (a minimum of 15.5 lbs.), work well in semi-protected waters, provide good visibility, are less bulky and more comfortable than Type I vests, and will turn many unconscious wearers face up in the water. Drawbacks are they are not designed for long hours in rough waters, and may not provide sufficient flotation to turn an unconscious wearer face up in the water.

Type III PFD's are designed for calm, protected inland waters, such as small lakes and bays, where immediate rescue is likely. They provide a minimum of 15.5 lbs. of buoyancy, are comfortable for extended wear, provide freedom of movement, and are available in many different styles, such as ski vests and float coats. Disadvantages are their unsuitability for rough water, inability to turn an unconscious person face up in the water, along with the potential that conscious wearers may have to hold their head back to avoid being turned face down in the water. Non-standard colors may be difficult to see in the water under some light conditions.

Type IV devices are often referred to as throwable devices, such as cushions, horseshoe buoys and rings. These devices are not designed to be worn, but to be thrown to a person in distress, and provide supplemental buoyancy until help arrives. They are not suitable for unconscious person, non-swimmers or children, or long periods in the water.

Type V devices, or hybrid devices, must be worn at all times to be considered as meeting requirements. Some, called immersion or exposure suits are bulky, but provide protection from hypothermia. Others are less bulky, provide high buoyancy when inflated, and can be worn comfortably for extended periods. Exposure suits are excellent for survival in cold waters, where hypothermia is a great danger, and may well be considered by offshore cruisers venturing into colder climates or waters. Disadvantages are the high cost, regular maintenance required and that the devices may not provide adequate buoyancy for all persons unless inflated.

Finally, there are inflatable devices available that are marketed as life jackets or vests. The Coast Guard did not approve these until 1996, and these are now listed as various Types, including Type I, II, III and Type V PFD’s. However, the Coast Guard requires you must be at least 16 years old and weigh at least 80 pounds to wear one of these Type V inflatables for recreational boating activities. The Coast Guard further takes the position that non-swimmers not wear this type life vest. In addition, any of these vests made prior to 1996 not showing the USCG approval markings are not considered safe for use and should not be placed in service in any event.

You need to choose the right PFD for you and your crew. Be sure the ones you pick are U.S. Coast Guard approved. Choose the right PFD for the waters and conditions you will encounter. Look carefully at the hardware and construction. This is no place to skimp on quality. And, remember, if you don't wear it, even the best PFD may be useless. Keep your devices on deck, protected from the elements, but readily accessible, when you are underway. Be sure all guests try on a PFD and know how to put it on before you leave the dock. Buy the right sizes for adults, and remember that adult size PFD's are not for children. Choose appropriate sizes for children at their present weight and size; don't buy a larger size for them to "grow into."

As of May 1, 1995, (That's 13 years ago..certainly long enough for everyone to know by now?) all boats under 16 feet in length must have aboard a wearable PFD for each person aboard. Those cushions you sit on in your small boats are not acceptable as a personal flotation device.

Finally, as of December 23, 2002, all children under the age of 13 years must wear a Coast Guard approved life jacket at all times while aboard recreational vessels underway unless they are below decks or in an enclosed cabin.

Being in the water without your life jacket can result in a sinking feeling. Your PFD is a life saver. Choose it carefully, and wear it!

Here's a USCG link to selection and fitting of PFD's: http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/cg5214/pfdselection.asp

Safe Boating.

FIRE!

The single word "FIRE" is among the most dreaded words on earth. On land, the "fight or flight" phenomenon gives you the option to flee. On the water, however, you cannot simply run away from fire. You must deal with it, fight it, overwhelm it and defeat it immediately. Otherwise, the result will be tragic.

The key to reducing the likelihood of fire is prevention. Believe me, the greatest effort at prevention is well worth the time and expense, when measured against the effects of a fire. So, how do you start preventing fire on your boat? The following list may be helpful:

1. Start with good housekeeping. Get rid of combustible clutter. Properly discard old paints, thinners, polishes and other flammable or combustible items. (Most communities have a household hazardous materials day, where you can discard your hazmats for free, up to a certain quantity. Contact your city offices or fire department for details.)

2. Check your electrical wiring, both 12 volt and 110 volt. Be sure the power is off when checking shore power connections, etc. An electrical tester, designed to show polarity and ground integrity, is a good investment. Be sure wiring is of adequate size for the load. Check cords regularly to spot fraying or deterioration. Be sure all circuits are equipped with circuit breakers or fuses of the proper amperage. Don't over fuse.

3. Check all heat producing appliances for proper clearance to combustibles. This includes light bulbs, which can generate sufficient heat to ignite bedding, paper, and wood.

4. Check your fire extinguishing system. Halon, FE-200, FE-25 and carbon dioxide systems, installed in machinery spaces, provide an excellent first line of defense should a fire erupt. But, they must receive regular service to assure proper operation. Consult your owners' manual, and contact a fire protection service company for assistance if needed.

5. Check your hand portable fire extinguishers. Are they fully charged, sealed and tagged with a current service date? Are they the right extinguisher for the type fire you are likely to encounter, and USCG Approved for Marine Use? And, are they mounted where they are readily available in event of need?

6. Fuel carefully. Check all hoses and clamps regularly. Run your blowers for five minutes after fueling. Stick your head in the bilge and sniff for fumes before starting the engines. Use only listed containers and portable fuel tanks for outboard fuel, and always store them above decks.

7. Be sure your carburetor flame arrestor is clean, in good condition and secured properly. Never start or operate your engine without the flame arrestor in place.

And, if after all your precautions, a fire does start, keep your cool. If it's in the engine room, and you have automatic extinguishing equipment, give the system time to put out the fire. Leave hatches closed after the system actuates, and wait the recommended period of time before opening. Have a backup extinguisher ready. If you need to fight the fire with a portable extinguisher, sweep the extinguisher discharge from side to side at the base of the flames, until the fire is out. Keep a watch for rekindling or flare up. If possible, immediately call the Coast Guard and report your situation. This is no time to second guess the fire. Better to have the Coast Guard on the way and not need them, than the other way around.

Safe Boating.

ACCIDENTALLY YOURS

No one ever seems to plan an accident. If they did, I guess it would no longer be an accident. They just seem to happen, don't they? And some of us are accident prone. You know, the guy who falls off his own feet when he's standing still.

Actually, there is an accident causation theory that says someone is responsible for every accident. Who, me? Yes, probably you. Most accidents are a result of errors or unsafe acts committed by people, not by the equipment or environment around them.

Take Clem for example. Wearing a long sleeve shirt, he reached down to see if the shaft packing on his port engine was heating up. His sleeve got caught in the shaft coupling, and he was seriously injured. What caused the accident? Clem did. He never should have been wearing a long sleeve shirt around rotating machinery.

And, how about Will. He was standing on a plastic container trying to reach a fitting on the main mast. The container cracked, slipped out from under him, and poor Will suffered a broken arm in the fall. The container didn't do anything; Will should have been using a proper ladder, or a sturdy step made for standing on. Again, the injured party was the culprit who engineered his own injury.

Then there is Jim. On many occasions, Jim had been warned not to place his feet in the coil formed by the line laying on deck. But, when the line was suddenly snapped tight, so was Jim's ankle, broken in two places as he was dragged across the deck. Is it the fault of the line?

Or Lisa, who refused to wear her PFD, although she was a poor swimmer. They never found her after she went overboard in heavy seas.

There are certainly contributing factors in many accidents. Maybe the shirt was too long for Clem, the plastic container old and brittle for Will. And, maybe nobody yelled when the line was paying out under Jim's feet, and perhaps the skipper should have refused to sail with Lisa without her wearing her life jacket. Sure, we can lay some of the blame on others, but, ultimately, you are responsible for your own safety. As adults, we make choices daily, from deciding what time to get up in the morning, to going to bed at night. You don't let anyone tell you when to brush your teeth, so why let anyone else be responsible for your safety.

With safety, you are either the winner, or the loser. There's no runner up or second place. The prize is life.

Safe Boating.