It's two-thirty on a warm August afternoon. The operator of a new 27 foot express cruiser, with three passengers aboard, has just finished fueling, loading 80 gallons of gasoline into his tanks. He closes the tank fill, and runs his bilge blowers for four minutes. The gasoline smell lingers, but he's sure it must be from the tank vents and the fuel dock. He starts to turn the key, hesitates a second, and fires up the engine.
Later, from the burn ward at the trauma center, he says he never heard or saw the explosion that threw him into the water, killed one of his passengers, and severely injured the other two. Nor did he see the ensuing fire that destroyed his boat and damaged the fuel dock and two adjacent vessels. "What went wrong?", he asks. "I ran the blowers like I should and still the boat exploded."
This captain broke the cardinal rule of safety on gasoline fueled boats. He didn't lift the hatches, look and sniff, to be sure that fuel hadn't leaked into the bilge. In his case, a loose clamp on the single clamped fuel fill, had allowed several gallons of gas to run into the bilge, where it vaporized and ignited when the engine was started.
Gasoline is strange stuff. A mixture of aliphatic hydrocarbons, it has a flash point of minus 50 degrees Fahrenheit (-50F). So, even in the coldest temperatures, it'll still burn. It's vapor density is three to four times that of air, which is why fumes find the lowest point of your boat, the bilge. It has a lower explosive level of 1.3% and an upper explosive level of 6%, meaning that when mixed with plain old air (vaporized), anywhere between those percentages, and given an ignition source, it's gonna blow. Autoignition temperature is 536 F to 853 F, so if you heat it up on a hot manifold, poof!
So, what can you do to reduce the potential for an explosion and fire? There are a few ways. First, before you start those engines, or generator, raise the hatches, get down below and take a good sniff. There should be no odor of gasoline in a properly maintained vessel. Second, regularly check all fuel system hoses and clamps. All fill line fittings should be double clamped at the tank and deck fitting. Vent hoses should be double clamped at both ends. Damaged hoses should be replaced immediately. Third, be sure your blowers are adequate, properly connected, and draw air from the lowest points of the bilge to exhaust any possible vapors. Finally, consider investing in a vapor detector or "sniffer" for your bilge. They're invaluable sentries when you're underway, and can't sniff the bilge for yourself.
My personal story had a much happier ending than the one above. Returning to the dock after an afternoon cruise on my sportfisherman, I climbed down from the flybridge to the main deck, where I smelled the strong odor of gasoline. I thought one of my neighboring boaters was filling an outboard tank, but this was even stronger. The odors seemed to be coming from my bilge. I opened the hatch to find the port tank had ruptured, and the bilge awash in gasoline. I won't bore you with the cleanup details, nor the precautions we took to preclude ignition, but there were many. The important thing is that there was no explosion or fire. I always run with the ventilation blowers on. I feel it provides an extra margin of safety, and in this case, the blowers likely kept the vapors minimized until the engine was shut down, and all electrical circuits de-energized. Cheap insurance, replacing a blower every two or three years.
Explosion and fire is a terrifying ordeal on shore, more so aboard. Protect your vessel, and your life, by practicing safe fueling, ventilation, and fuel system maintenance.
Safe Boating.
Thursday, August 28, 2008
Saturday, August 23, 2008
Hook Head Lighthouse, County Wexford, Ireland
The Lighthouse: Hook Head lies at the foot of a narrow spit of land near Churchtown in County Wexford, and has been the site of a lighthouse for over 7 centuries. A light was built on this site by the monks in 1172 and it is rumored that even before that a beacon fire was maintained at a local monastery nearby to guide mariners on their approach to Waterford harbor. The light was maintained by the monks until 1641 at which time they left the area and it was off for 25 years. After a series of shipwrecks, it was ordered to be lit by Charles II and has remained consistently lit ever since. A site well worth visiting if you're ever in Ireland and a beautiful drive from Waterford on Ireland's south coast.
The Camera: Taken with an Olympus E-100 RS Digital Camera, 1.5 Megapixels JPG image, unedited. The beauty of the E-100Rs is the 15 frames per second shooting speed, the wonderful all glass aspherical lens and the ruggedness to travel anywhere. The utility of an SLR without changing lenses with an amazing 1o26 mm zoom (380 optical combined with a 2.7X digital) and an image stabilizer that works superbly even out that far!) Alas, these cameras are no longer made and those owning one hold them tighter than a bullfrog's butt. If you can grab one, for a few hundred dollars, you'll likely be a very happy owner.
WHAT"S COOKIN', GOOD LOOKIN'?
Well, many of you will want to know what makes me an expert on cooking safety. I don't cook much, still have all my fingers, some of my hair, and haven't burned up my boat, so I'm at least one up on a few boaters in Southern California. But, seriously, cooking accidents are especially dangerous aboard a boat, and a few precautions can reduce the risk to you and your boat.
Alcohol Stoves:
NEVER fill a hot stove. On a pressurized stove, let the stove cool before bleeding off pressure and filling. On a cartridge or canister type stove, let the canister cool before filling, and ALWAYS remove the canister from the stove before filling. Remove extra alcohol from the area where you are cooking. Keep spare fuel tightly capped, and stowed where the container will not rust through. Wipe up spilled fuel immediately. And, keep a small spray bottle filled with water near the stove. A fine mist will tame alcohol flare ups, and repeated mist sprays will usually extinguish a small cooking fire. DO NOT use a straight stream; this will only spread the burning alcohol, or grease, to other areas.
LPG & CNG:
If you use liquid propane gas (LPG) or compressed natural gas (CNG), check the appliances and all supply lines regularly for leakage. Be sure regulators and solenoids, if equipped, are working properly. If you use LPG, the preferred tank location is above decks, away from openings where escaping vapors could enter the enclosed spaces of your vessel. If your tank is in an enclosure, designed for LPG storage, be sure the vents are free of blockage and there are no openings that will allow gas to seep into the bilge. Check the tanks frequently. If a tank is damaged, or severely rusted or corroded, replace it. With CNG, refuse to accept exchange tanks that are damaged or deteriorated. And, shut off the supply at the tank when the system is not in use.Consider installing a gas vapor detector in the engine and bilge spaces of the boat if you use LPG. Vapors are heavier than air, and a leak can go undetected, while filling your bilge and engine spaces with explosive vapors.
Barbecues:
If you have a gas barbecue on board, the type that uses the small disposable cylinders, store the cylinders above decks, and take the same precautions you would with larger tanks. These cylinders, containing sixteen to twenty ounces of LPG, can put enough gas vapor in your boat to destroy it at the slightest spark. At least one of the manufacturers has a storage bag that attaches to a railing above deck, and keeps the cylinders out in the air.If you use charcoal for cooking, be sure it's COMPLETELY cool before disposing of the coals. While the briquettes can be only warm on the outside, the centers can still be glowing hot, sometimes for up to eighteen hours after cooking. I have personally witnessed fires started like this. And, don't use flammable liquids, such as gasoline, for igniting the briquettes. Use starter fluid, starter cubes or similar to ignite your fire.
Be sure to have a fire extinguisher in the galley area, so it is ready for use if needed. Don't mount it over the stove, where you won't be able to reach it if there is a fire.
A fire on board can be a terrifying ordeal for all. Cook safely, and you won't have all those extra guests, from the fire department, on your boat at chow time. They really won't mind not being invited.
Safe Boating!
Alcohol Stoves:
NEVER fill a hot stove. On a pressurized stove, let the stove cool before bleeding off pressure and filling. On a cartridge or canister type stove, let the canister cool before filling, and ALWAYS remove the canister from the stove before filling. Remove extra alcohol from the area where you are cooking. Keep spare fuel tightly capped, and stowed where the container will not rust through. Wipe up spilled fuel immediately. And, keep a small spray bottle filled with water near the stove. A fine mist will tame alcohol flare ups, and repeated mist sprays will usually extinguish a small cooking fire. DO NOT use a straight stream; this will only spread the burning alcohol, or grease, to other areas.
LPG & CNG:
If you use liquid propane gas (LPG) or compressed natural gas (CNG), check the appliances and all supply lines regularly for leakage. Be sure regulators and solenoids, if equipped, are working properly. If you use LPG, the preferred tank location is above decks, away from openings where escaping vapors could enter the enclosed spaces of your vessel. If your tank is in an enclosure, designed for LPG storage, be sure the vents are free of blockage and there are no openings that will allow gas to seep into the bilge. Check the tanks frequently. If a tank is damaged, or severely rusted or corroded, replace it. With CNG, refuse to accept exchange tanks that are damaged or deteriorated. And, shut off the supply at the tank when the system is not in use.Consider installing a gas vapor detector in the engine and bilge spaces of the boat if you use LPG. Vapors are heavier than air, and a leak can go undetected, while filling your bilge and engine spaces with explosive vapors.
Barbecues:
If you have a gas barbecue on board, the type that uses the small disposable cylinders, store the cylinders above decks, and take the same precautions you would with larger tanks. These cylinders, containing sixteen to twenty ounces of LPG, can put enough gas vapor in your boat to destroy it at the slightest spark. At least one of the manufacturers has a storage bag that attaches to a railing above deck, and keeps the cylinders out in the air.If you use charcoal for cooking, be sure it's COMPLETELY cool before disposing of the coals. While the briquettes can be only warm on the outside, the centers can still be glowing hot, sometimes for up to eighteen hours after cooking. I have personally witnessed fires started like this. And, don't use flammable liquids, such as gasoline, for igniting the briquettes. Use starter fluid, starter cubes or similar to ignite your fire.
Be sure to have a fire extinguisher in the galley area, so it is ready for use if needed. Don't mount it over the stove, where you won't be able to reach it if there is a fire.
A fire on board can be a terrifying ordeal for all. Cook safely, and you won't have all those extra guests, from the fire department, on your boat at chow time. They really won't mind not being invited.
Safe Boating!
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Point Pinos Lighthouse near Monterey, CA
Lighthouses have been a source of comfort to mariners for centuries. A beacon of hope, of direction when weather has been foul, and storms have been bad. Most have been replaced with more modern lighting, including strobes on different towers, and some are mere shadows of their once-elegant beacon towers, being just a cut-down platform for a modern flashing light.
Here and there in my blog, I'll feature a lighthouse from the US and abroad showing the beauty and majesty of these wonderful structures that have brought mariners home to their ports through the storm and darkness for centuries. I guarantee there are some that will amaze you in their location and I won't reveal how the photos were taken...unless you ask!
THAT SINKING FEELING
Boats float by displacing a given amount of water. Hydraulic pressure is constantly attempting to push that water back in the space occupied by the boat, and when it does, the vessel usually sinks. So, in practice as well as theory, the only thing that actually sinks a boat is water.
There are three primary causes for boats sinking at the dock; sea water, rain water and potable water. Contributing factors include poor hull and equipment maintenance, inadequate or inoperative bilge pumps, and electrical sources, such as batteries, that simply give out.
Sea water will enter your hull through any possible route. Thru-hulls should be inspected regularly, and tested at each haul out. Look for seepage around fittings, deterioration and corrosion. Open and close seacocks regularly to assure free operation. Be sure all below waterline fittings are double clamped with genuine stainless steel clamps. (Some clamps are not all stainless; check all parts of the clamp with a magnet.) Check the clamps regularly, and replace any that are rusted. Good idea to check your exhaust hoses and outlets too. A loose connection can allow a lot of water in the bilge, not to mention the carbon monoxide danger when your engine is running. Shaft and rudder packing glands or stuffing boxes should receive regular attention. Unless you have dripless seals installed, shaft seals should drip some when underway, but not excessively. Adjust to vessel manufacturers specifications.
Rain water will collect in your boat unless it has a free path overboard. Keep deck drains and scuppers free of debris. Leaves, rags left on deck, fishing debris and other materials can clog drains. Check the drain hoses and tighten clamps as needed. Rain water that would normally drain off can enter the bilge, and cause the vessel to sink. This usually happens after repeated rains, even in places where you have relatively moderate to dry climates, and then a rash of storms, as we have seen during recent years. If you have a cover on a small boat or dinghy, be sure it has a bow or other raised portion to deflect water off, or the cover will "belly" and collect until it fills and possibly sink the vessel.
Above the waterline overboard discharge fittings, including those for bilge pumps and shower drains, can also cause sinking. This occurs when a vessel takes on sufficient water, or otherwise is burdened, to allow these fittings to settle below the waterline, and sea water enters the lines. Since these lines do not have check valves, water pours in through the bilge pump, or shower drain, and the vessel sinks. Many boat owners install inverted "U" loops in the lines leading to these fittings to reduce the potential for this type loss. Be sure these fittings are securely clamped too; sinkings have occurred due to hoses pulling off fittings at, or just above, the waterline.
Potable water, straight from the tap, is another cause of vessel sinkings. The owner leaves the city water connected to the vessel and pressurized while away. If a hose breaks or a fitting fails, the vessel is then allowed to fill up from an almost unlimited water supply. This is particularly a problem for people who use their boats infrequently. There are two simple solutions; the first, and the best, is to shut off the water supply whenever you will not be on board. Second is to purchase a small metering device that connects to your water supply hose, (about $10.00) and set the gallonage to your expected consumption for the day, weekend or whatever time you expect to be on board. The meter will shut off when you've used that much, and hopefully, before your boat can sustain much damage if a leak occurs and you're not there.
Most sinkings are preventable. Seeing your prized boat at the bottom, with only the mast or antenna to mark its position, is only the beginning. Raising, salvage, and pollution abatement costs can be many times the value of the vessel. Renovation and refurbishing is often out of the reach of the owner. Don't rely solely on bilge pumps; they are subject to failure, as is the electrical current from your batteries. Take some precautions now to protect your investment, and your enjoyment.
Safe Boating.
There are three primary causes for boats sinking at the dock; sea water, rain water and potable water. Contributing factors include poor hull and equipment maintenance, inadequate or inoperative bilge pumps, and electrical sources, such as batteries, that simply give out.
Sea water will enter your hull through any possible route. Thru-hulls should be inspected regularly, and tested at each haul out. Look for seepage around fittings, deterioration and corrosion. Open and close seacocks regularly to assure free operation. Be sure all below waterline fittings are double clamped with genuine stainless steel clamps. (Some clamps are not all stainless; check all parts of the clamp with a magnet.) Check the clamps regularly, and replace any that are rusted. Good idea to check your exhaust hoses and outlets too. A loose connection can allow a lot of water in the bilge, not to mention the carbon monoxide danger when your engine is running. Shaft and rudder packing glands or stuffing boxes should receive regular attention. Unless you have dripless seals installed, shaft seals should drip some when underway, but not excessively. Adjust to vessel manufacturers specifications.
Rain water will collect in your boat unless it has a free path overboard. Keep deck drains and scuppers free of debris. Leaves, rags left on deck, fishing debris and other materials can clog drains. Check the drain hoses and tighten clamps as needed. Rain water that would normally drain off can enter the bilge, and cause the vessel to sink. This usually happens after repeated rains, even in places where you have relatively moderate to dry climates, and then a rash of storms, as we have seen during recent years. If you have a cover on a small boat or dinghy, be sure it has a bow or other raised portion to deflect water off, or the cover will "belly" and collect until it fills and possibly sink the vessel.
Above the waterline overboard discharge fittings, including those for bilge pumps and shower drains, can also cause sinking. This occurs when a vessel takes on sufficient water, or otherwise is burdened, to allow these fittings to settle below the waterline, and sea water enters the lines. Since these lines do not have check valves, water pours in through the bilge pump, or shower drain, and the vessel sinks. Many boat owners install inverted "U" loops in the lines leading to these fittings to reduce the potential for this type loss. Be sure these fittings are securely clamped too; sinkings have occurred due to hoses pulling off fittings at, or just above, the waterline.
Potable water, straight from the tap, is another cause of vessel sinkings. The owner leaves the city water connected to the vessel and pressurized while away. If a hose breaks or a fitting fails, the vessel is then allowed to fill up from an almost unlimited water supply. This is particularly a problem for people who use their boats infrequently. There are two simple solutions; the first, and the best, is to shut off the water supply whenever you will not be on board. Second is to purchase a small metering device that connects to your water supply hose, (about $10.00) and set the gallonage to your expected consumption for the day, weekend or whatever time you expect to be on board. The meter will shut off when you've used that much, and hopefully, before your boat can sustain much damage if a leak occurs and you're not there.
Most sinkings are preventable. Seeing your prized boat at the bottom, with only the mast or antenna to mark its position, is only the beginning. Raising, salvage, and pollution abatement costs can be many times the value of the vessel. Renovation and refurbishing is often out of the reach of the owner. Don't rely solely on bilge pumps; they are subject to failure, as is the electrical current from your batteries. Take some precautions now to protect your investment, and your enjoyment.
Safe Boating.
BOATING SAFETY
When is the last time you checked your smoke detector? The one on your boat, I mean. There's a very good likelihood you don't have one. Yet, this little marvel of the electronics age, priced at under ten dollars, could mean the difference between surviving a boat fire, or not. Placed on a side bulkhead of the cabin, at least 12 inches below the overhead, smoke detectors will provide a margin of safety in providing early warning of a smoldering fire.
And, when are you going to reconnect that pesky carbon dioxide monitor? Yeah, the small box on the cabin bulkhead that keeps going off when you're running your engines at the dock, or your generator at anchor. Since carbon monoxide is colorless, odorless and tasteless, there's not much chance you will know you're being poisoned. And the symptoms are similar to overexposure to the sun; headache, dizziness, flush skin, nausea, and disorientation. That's not much help either. But, when these symptoms persist, there's a distinct likelihood you will never know you're on the way to Davy Jones' Ball.
Okay, and there's that darn fire extinguisher bottle in the bilge. I guess it's okay, since it's still there. Whoa. Is that your automatic halon system we're talking about? Weighing at least twice annually is the only way to be sure it's charged and ready to go. And, how about those hand portable fire extinguishers? Are the tags up to date and are they ready for service? As a tip: Turn your dry chemical extinguishers upside down occasionally, and if they are in sound condition, tap gently with a rubber mallet around the cylinder. This loosens up the powder, which will tend to compress and cake in some cases.
Finally, when is the last time you checked your dock lines? No, I mean really looked at them closely? Dock lines have the tendency to become abraded, sun dried and frayed, making their integrity questionable. Replace your dock lines with good quality line at regular intervals. Follow the line manufacturers recommendations for working load and breaking strength. Buy the best quality lines you can afford. It seems foolish to spend tens of thousands of dollars on a boat, and try to secure it against natures ravages with a ten dollar line.
As a final comment, concerning quality, and getting what you pay for, I often say "After you jump, it's too late to wish you bought the better parachute." The same holds true for anchors, anchor lines, dock lines and safety equipment. After all, you never heard anyone complain that their parachute worked too well, did you?
Safe Boating!
And, when are you going to reconnect that pesky carbon dioxide monitor? Yeah, the small box on the cabin bulkhead that keeps going off when you're running your engines at the dock, or your generator at anchor. Since carbon monoxide is colorless, odorless and tasteless, there's not much chance you will know you're being poisoned. And the symptoms are similar to overexposure to the sun; headache, dizziness, flush skin, nausea, and disorientation. That's not much help either. But, when these symptoms persist, there's a distinct likelihood you will never know you're on the way to Davy Jones' Ball.
Okay, and there's that darn fire extinguisher bottle in the bilge. I guess it's okay, since it's still there. Whoa. Is that your automatic halon system we're talking about? Weighing at least twice annually is the only way to be sure it's charged and ready to go. And, how about those hand portable fire extinguishers? Are the tags up to date and are they ready for service? As a tip: Turn your dry chemical extinguishers upside down occasionally, and if they are in sound condition, tap gently with a rubber mallet around the cylinder. This loosens up the powder, which will tend to compress and cake in some cases.
Finally, when is the last time you checked your dock lines? No, I mean really looked at them closely? Dock lines have the tendency to become abraded, sun dried and frayed, making their integrity questionable. Replace your dock lines with good quality line at regular intervals. Follow the line manufacturers recommendations for working load and breaking strength. Buy the best quality lines you can afford. It seems foolish to spend tens of thousands of dollars on a boat, and try to secure it against natures ravages with a ten dollar line.
As a final comment, concerning quality, and getting what you pay for, I often say "After you jump, it's too late to wish you bought the better parachute." The same holds true for anchors, anchor lines, dock lines and safety equipment. After all, you never heard anyone complain that their parachute worked too well, did you?
Safe Boating!
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
PFD'S
I am sure all of you know what a PFD is. The acronym doesn't mean Pretty Far Down, which is where many of us would end up if not for that good old Personal Flotation Device.
PFD's are available in a number of types and sizes. Let's take a look at the list:
Type I PFD's, often called offshore life jackets, are designed for open water use, where rescue will likely be delayed. If you cruise, or travel more than a few miles offshore, a Type I is the PFD of choice. They provide the most buoyancy,(a minimum of 22 lbs.), are best for rough waters, are highly visible, and will turn most unconscious persons face up in the water. Drawbacks are that they are bulky to store, can be uncomfortable for long time wear, and may restrict your movements.
Type II PFD's, often referred to as near-shore buoyant vests, are suitable for near coastal waters, where rescue will likely be rapid. They provide less flotation than a Type I vest, (a minimum of 15.5 lbs.), work well in semi-protected waters, provide good visibility, are less bulky and more comfortable than Type I vests, and will turn many unconscious wearers face up in the water. Drawbacks are they are not designed for long hours in rough waters, and may not provide sufficient flotation to turn an unconscious wearer face up in the water.
Type III PFD's are designed for calm, protected inland waters, such as small lakes and bays, where immediate rescue is likely. They provide a minimum of 15.5 lbs. of buoyancy, are comfortable for extended wear, provide freedom of movement, and are available in many different styles, such as ski vests and float coats. Disadvantages are their unsuitability for rough water, inability to turn an unconscious person face up in the water, along with the potential that conscious wearers may have to hold their head back to avoid being turned face down in the water. Non-standard colors may be difficult to see in the water under some light conditions.
Type IV devices are often referred to as throwable devices, such as cushions, horseshoe buoys and rings. These devices are not designed to be worn, but to be thrown to a person in distress, and provide supplemental buoyancy until help arrives. They are not suitable for unconscious person, non-swimmers or children, or long periods in the water.
Type V devices, or hybrid devices, must be worn at all times to be considered as meeting requirements. Some, called immersion or exposure suits are bulky, but provide protection from hypothermia. Others are less bulky, provide high buoyancy when inflated, and can be worn comfortably for extended periods. Exposure suits are excellent for survival in cold waters, where hypothermia is a great danger, and may well be considered by offshore cruisers venturing into colder climates or waters. Disadvantages are the high cost, regular maintenance required and that the devices may not provide adequate buoyancy for all persons unless inflated.
Finally, there are inflatable devices available that are marketed as life jackets or vests. The Coast Guard did not approve these until 1996, and these are now listed as various Types, including Type I, II, III and Type V PFD’s. However, the Coast Guard requires you must be at least 16 years old and weigh at least 80 pounds to wear one of these Type V inflatables for recreational boating activities. The Coast Guard further takes the position that non-swimmers not wear this type life vest. In addition, any of these vests made prior to 1996 not showing the USCG approval markings are not considered safe for use and should not be placed in service in any event.
You need to choose the right PFD for you and your crew. Be sure the ones you pick are U.S. Coast Guard approved. Choose the right PFD for the waters and conditions you will encounter. Look carefully at the hardware and construction. This is no place to skimp on quality. And, remember, if you don't wear it, even the best PFD may be useless. Keep your devices on deck, protected from the elements, but readily accessible, when you are underway. Be sure all guests try on a PFD and know how to put it on before you leave the dock. Buy the right sizes for adults, and remember that adult size PFD's are not for children. Choose appropriate sizes for children at their present weight and size; don't buy a larger size for them to "grow into."
As of May 1, 1995, (That's 13 years ago..certainly long enough for everyone to know by now?) all boats under 16 feet in length must have aboard a wearable PFD for each person aboard. Those cushions you sit on in your small boats are not acceptable as a personal flotation device.
Finally, as of December 23, 2002, all children under the age of 13 years must wear a Coast Guard approved life jacket at all times while aboard recreational vessels underway unless they are below decks or in an enclosed cabin.
Being in the water without your life jacket can result in a sinking feeling. Your PFD is a life saver. Choose it carefully, and wear it!
Here's a USCG link to selection and fitting of PFD's: http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/cg5214/pfdselection.asp
Safe Boating.
PFD's are available in a number of types and sizes. Let's take a look at the list:
Type I PFD's, often called offshore life jackets, are designed for open water use, where rescue will likely be delayed. If you cruise, or travel more than a few miles offshore, a Type I is the PFD of choice. They provide the most buoyancy,(a minimum of 22 lbs.), are best for rough waters, are highly visible, and will turn most unconscious persons face up in the water. Drawbacks are that they are bulky to store, can be uncomfortable for long time wear, and may restrict your movements.
Type II PFD's, often referred to as near-shore buoyant vests, are suitable for near coastal waters, where rescue will likely be rapid. They provide less flotation than a Type I vest, (a minimum of 15.5 lbs.), work well in semi-protected waters, provide good visibility, are less bulky and more comfortable than Type I vests, and will turn many unconscious wearers face up in the water. Drawbacks are they are not designed for long hours in rough waters, and may not provide sufficient flotation to turn an unconscious wearer face up in the water.
Type III PFD's are designed for calm, protected inland waters, such as small lakes and bays, where immediate rescue is likely. They provide a minimum of 15.5 lbs. of buoyancy, are comfortable for extended wear, provide freedom of movement, and are available in many different styles, such as ski vests and float coats. Disadvantages are their unsuitability for rough water, inability to turn an unconscious person face up in the water, along with the potential that conscious wearers may have to hold their head back to avoid being turned face down in the water. Non-standard colors may be difficult to see in the water under some light conditions.
Type IV devices are often referred to as throwable devices, such as cushions, horseshoe buoys and rings. These devices are not designed to be worn, but to be thrown to a person in distress, and provide supplemental buoyancy until help arrives. They are not suitable for unconscious person, non-swimmers or children, or long periods in the water.
Type V devices, or hybrid devices, must be worn at all times to be considered as meeting requirements. Some, called immersion or exposure suits are bulky, but provide protection from hypothermia. Others are less bulky, provide high buoyancy when inflated, and can be worn comfortably for extended periods. Exposure suits are excellent for survival in cold waters, where hypothermia is a great danger, and may well be considered by offshore cruisers venturing into colder climates or waters. Disadvantages are the high cost, regular maintenance required and that the devices may not provide adequate buoyancy for all persons unless inflated.
Finally, there are inflatable devices available that are marketed as life jackets or vests. The Coast Guard did not approve these until 1996, and these are now listed as various Types, including Type I, II, III and Type V PFD’s. However, the Coast Guard requires you must be at least 16 years old and weigh at least 80 pounds to wear one of these Type V inflatables for recreational boating activities. The Coast Guard further takes the position that non-swimmers not wear this type life vest. In addition, any of these vests made prior to 1996 not showing the USCG approval markings are not considered safe for use and should not be placed in service in any event.
You need to choose the right PFD for you and your crew. Be sure the ones you pick are U.S. Coast Guard approved. Choose the right PFD for the waters and conditions you will encounter. Look carefully at the hardware and construction. This is no place to skimp on quality. And, remember, if you don't wear it, even the best PFD may be useless. Keep your devices on deck, protected from the elements, but readily accessible, when you are underway. Be sure all guests try on a PFD and know how to put it on before you leave the dock. Buy the right sizes for adults, and remember that adult size PFD's are not for children. Choose appropriate sizes for children at their present weight and size; don't buy a larger size for them to "grow into."
As of May 1, 1995, (That's 13 years ago..certainly long enough for everyone to know by now?) all boats under 16 feet in length must have aboard a wearable PFD for each person aboard. Those cushions you sit on in your small boats are not acceptable as a personal flotation device.
Finally, as of December 23, 2002, all children under the age of 13 years must wear a Coast Guard approved life jacket at all times while aboard recreational vessels underway unless they are below decks or in an enclosed cabin.
Being in the water without your life jacket can result in a sinking feeling. Your PFD is a life saver. Choose it carefully, and wear it!
Here's a USCG link to selection and fitting of PFD's: http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/cg5214/pfdselection.asp
Safe Boating.
FIRE!
The single word "FIRE" is among the most dreaded words on earth. On land, the "fight or flight" phenomenon gives you the option to flee. On the water, however, you cannot simply run away from fire. You must deal with it, fight it, overwhelm it and defeat it immediately. Otherwise, the result will be tragic.
The key to reducing the likelihood of fire is prevention. Believe me, the greatest effort at prevention is well worth the time and expense, when measured against the effects of a fire. So, how do you start preventing fire on your boat? The following list may be helpful:
1. Start with good housekeeping. Get rid of combustible clutter. Properly discard old paints, thinners, polishes and other flammable or combustible items. (Most communities have a household hazardous materials day, where you can discard your hazmats for free, up to a certain quantity. Contact your city offices or fire department for details.)
2. Check your electrical wiring, both 12 volt and 110 volt. Be sure the power is off when checking shore power connections, etc. An electrical tester, designed to show polarity and ground integrity, is a good investment. Be sure wiring is of adequate size for the load. Check cords regularly to spot fraying or deterioration. Be sure all circuits are equipped with circuit breakers or fuses of the proper amperage. Don't over fuse.
3. Check all heat producing appliances for proper clearance to combustibles. This includes light bulbs, which can generate sufficient heat to ignite bedding, paper, and wood.
4. Check your fire extinguishing system. Halon, FE-200, FE-25 and carbon dioxide systems, installed in machinery spaces, provide an excellent first line of defense should a fire erupt. But, they must receive regular service to assure proper operation. Consult your owners' manual, and contact a fire protection service company for assistance if needed.
5. Check your hand portable fire extinguishers. Are they fully charged, sealed and tagged with a current service date? Are they the right extinguisher for the type fire you are likely to encounter, and USCG Approved for Marine Use? And, are they mounted where they are readily available in event of need?
6. Fuel carefully. Check all hoses and clamps regularly. Run your blowers for five minutes after fueling. Stick your head in the bilge and sniff for fumes before starting the engines. Use only listed containers and portable fuel tanks for outboard fuel, and always store them above decks.
7. Be sure your carburetor flame arrestor is clean, in good condition and secured properly. Never start or operate your engine without the flame arrestor in place.
And, if after all your precautions, a fire does start, keep your cool. If it's in the engine room, and you have automatic extinguishing equipment, give the system time to put out the fire. Leave hatches closed after the system actuates, and wait the recommended period of time before opening. Have a backup extinguisher ready. If you need to fight the fire with a portable extinguisher, sweep the extinguisher discharge from side to side at the base of the flames, until the fire is out. Keep a watch for rekindling or flare up. If possible, immediately call the Coast Guard and report your situation. This is no time to second guess the fire. Better to have the Coast Guard on the way and not need them, than the other way around.
Safe Boating.
The key to reducing the likelihood of fire is prevention. Believe me, the greatest effort at prevention is well worth the time and expense, when measured against the effects of a fire. So, how do you start preventing fire on your boat? The following list may be helpful:
1. Start with good housekeeping. Get rid of combustible clutter. Properly discard old paints, thinners, polishes and other flammable or combustible items. (Most communities have a household hazardous materials day, where you can discard your hazmats for free, up to a certain quantity. Contact your city offices or fire department for details.)
2. Check your electrical wiring, both 12 volt and 110 volt. Be sure the power is off when checking shore power connections, etc. An electrical tester, designed to show polarity and ground integrity, is a good investment. Be sure wiring is of adequate size for the load. Check cords regularly to spot fraying or deterioration. Be sure all circuits are equipped with circuit breakers or fuses of the proper amperage. Don't over fuse.
3. Check all heat producing appliances for proper clearance to combustibles. This includes light bulbs, which can generate sufficient heat to ignite bedding, paper, and wood.
4. Check your fire extinguishing system. Halon, FE-200, FE-25 and carbon dioxide systems, installed in machinery spaces, provide an excellent first line of defense should a fire erupt. But, they must receive regular service to assure proper operation. Consult your owners' manual, and contact a fire protection service company for assistance if needed.
5. Check your hand portable fire extinguishers. Are they fully charged, sealed and tagged with a current service date? Are they the right extinguisher for the type fire you are likely to encounter, and USCG Approved for Marine Use? And, are they mounted where they are readily available in event of need?
6. Fuel carefully. Check all hoses and clamps regularly. Run your blowers for five minutes after fueling. Stick your head in the bilge and sniff for fumes before starting the engines. Use only listed containers and portable fuel tanks for outboard fuel, and always store them above decks.
7. Be sure your carburetor flame arrestor is clean, in good condition and secured properly. Never start or operate your engine without the flame arrestor in place.
And, if after all your precautions, a fire does start, keep your cool. If it's in the engine room, and you have automatic extinguishing equipment, give the system time to put out the fire. Leave hatches closed after the system actuates, and wait the recommended period of time before opening. Have a backup extinguisher ready. If you need to fight the fire with a portable extinguisher, sweep the extinguisher discharge from side to side at the base of the flames, until the fire is out. Keep a watch for rekindling or flare up. If possible, immediately call the Coast Guard and report your situation. This is no time to second guess the fire. Better to have the Coast Guard on the way and not need them, than the other way around.
Safe Boating.
ACCIDENTALLY YOURS
No one ever seems to plan an accident. If they did, I guess it would no longer be an accident. They just seem to happen, don't they? And some of us are accident prone. You know, the guy who falls off his own feet when he's standing still.
Actually, there is an accident causation theory that says someone is responsible for every accident. Who, me? Yes, probably you. Most accidents are a result of errors or unsafe acts committed by people, not by the equipment or environment around them.
Take Clem for example. Wearing a long sleeve shirt, he reached down to see if the shaft packing on his port engine was heating up. His sleeve got caught in the shaft coupling, and he was seriously injured. What caused the accident? Clem did. He never should have been wearing a long sleeve shirt around rotating machinery.
And, how about Will. He was standing on a plastic container trying to reach a fitting on the main mast. The container cracked, slipped out from under him, and poor Will suffered a broken arm in the fall. The container didn't do anything; Will should have been using a proper ladder, or a sturdy step made for standing on. Again, the injured party was the culprit who engineered his own injury.
Then there is Jim. On many occasions, Jim had been warned not to place his feet in the coil formed by the line laying on deck. But, when the line was suddenly snapped tight, so was Jim's ankle, broken in two places as he was dragged across the deck. Is it the fault of the line?
Or Lisa, who refused to wear her PFD, although she was a poor swimmer. They never found her after she went overboard in heavy seas.
There are certainly contributing factors in many accidents. Maybe the shirt was too long for Clem, the plastic container old and brittle for Will. And, maybe nobody yelled when the line was paying out under Jim's feet, and perhaps the skipper should have refused to sail with Lisa without her wearing her life jacket. Sure, we can lay some of the blame on others, but, ultimately, you are responsible for your own safety. As adults, we make choices daily, from deciding what time to get up in the morning, to going to bed at night. You don't let anyone tell you when to brush your teeth, so why let anyone else be responsible for your safety.
With safety, you are either the winner, or the loser. There's no runner up or second place. The prize is life.
Safe Boating.
Actually, there is an accident causation theory that says someone is responsible for every accident. Who, me? Yes, probably you. Most accidents are a result of errors or unsafe acts committed by people, not by the equipment or environment around them.
Take Clem for example. Wearing a long sleeve shirt, he reached down to see if the shaft packing on his port engine was heating up. His sleeve got caught in the shaft coupling, and he was seriously injured. What caused the accident? Clem did. He never should have been wearing a long sleeve shirt around rotating machinery.
And, how about Will. He was standing on a plastic container trying to reach a fitting on the main mast. The container cracked, slipped out from under him, and poor Will suffered a broken arm in the fall. The container didn't do anything; Will should have been using a proper ladder, or a sturdy step made for standing on. Again, the injured party was the culprit who engineered his own injury.
Then there is Jim. On many occasions, Jim had been warned not to place his feet in the coil formed by the line laying on deck. But, when the line was suddenly snapped tight, so was Jim's ankle, broken in two places as he was dragged across the deck. Is it the fault of the line?
Or Lisa, who refused to wear her PFD, although she was a poor swimmer. They never found her after she went overboard in heavy seas.
There are certainly contributing factors in many accidents. Maybe the shirt was too long for Clem, the plastic container old and brittle for Will. And, maybe nobody yelled when the line was paying out under Jim's feet, and perhaps the skipper should have refused to sail with Lisa without her wearing her life jacket. Sure, we can lay some of the blame on others, but, ultimately, you are responsible for your own safety. As adults, we make choices daily, from deciding what time to get up in the morning, to going to bed at night. You don't let anyone tell you when to brush your teeth, so why let anyone else be responsible for your safety.
With safety, you are either the winner, or the loser. There's no runner up or second place. The prize is life.
Safe Boating.
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